Roof replacement in Dallas, quoted by the square and torn off to the deck.

Full tear-off to the deck on every replacement. We do not lay new shingles over old ones. The second layer hides soft decking and the roof fails from underneath.

Most of the houses we replace in 75252 and the streets around it went up between the late 1970s and the early 2000s on plank or OSB decking. Thirty years of attic heat and one slow leak at a vent is enough to delaminate a sheet. You cannot see that from the ground and you cannot see it through a layover. Once the old shingles and felt are off, we walk the bare deck, press every sheet, and cut out what's soft.

Then it goes back in a fixed order: new drip edge on every eave and rake, ice-and-water shield in the valleys and around every penetration, synthetic underlayment across the field, starter strip, then architectural shingles such as Owens Corning Duration or GAF Timberline HDZ at six nails each. New pipe boots on every stack. Ridge vent cut in and matched to the soffit intake. Photographs at each stage before it gets covered.

A typical single-story house here runs somewhere around 20 to 35 squares once waste is counted. Two-story houses with a lot of hips and dormers go higher. Your quote will say the number, not a range.

Most leaks we chase are not the shingles. They are a cracked pipe boot or a step flashing that was caulked instead of replaced.

The neoprene collar on a standard pipe boot splits after enough Dallas summers. Water runs down the vent pipe, along a rafter, and drops onto your ceiling three or four feet away from where it got in. That is why we won't quote roof leak repair in Carrollton, Addison or anywhere else from a photo of the stain. We go up, find the entry point, and often go into the attic to trace the path.

Chimneys and second-story walls are the other usual suspects. Proper step flashing is one piece per shingle course, woven in, with counter flashing let into the mortar or tucked behind the siding above it. What we usually find is a single bent strip and a bead of roofing cement that dried out years ago. We pull that, replace the metal, and reshingle the courses around it.

Small repairs on a roof that has years left are often the right call. If the roof around the leak is finished, we'll say so and show you why.

Rot at the eave is almost always water that the roof edge should have kept off the wood.

No drip edge, or drip edge set behind the gutter instead of over it, and every rain runs down the back of the gutter into the fascia. A few years later the board is soft, the gutter spikes have pulled, and squirrels are in the soffit. We cut out the rotten sections back to sound wood, fit new primed boards, replace soffit panels and vents where they've gone, and rehang seamless aluminum gutter on hidden hangers screwed into the rafter tails.

Where a roof meets a second-story wall, the siding at the bottom often rots behind the kick-out. We patch that section in and add the kick-out flashing that should have been there. Done alongside a roof replacement, this work is cheaper because the edge is already open.